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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest place achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.